If you need help with anything then contact us at contact@randallscandles.co.uk  or call us on 01945 880247

Things we cover on this page:

Basic Candle Making

Test Burn

Troubleshooting

Potential wick problems

How to guides

Wick sizes

What are fragrance oils? 

IFRA categories 

 

Basic Candle Making Supplies 

The first thing you need to think about before you make your first candle is… what sort of candle do I want to make? what do I need?  If you are reading this then you must be new to candle making and are interested to see what you need to get you started. Once you have decided whether   Below is a list of things you will need to make your first candle, once you have the basics its easy to add to your supplies as you get more into making candles.   

Wax - Wax is the starting point of any candle making and depending on what candle you are making will depend greatly on the type of wax you choose. If you are making a container candle you will need container wax and if your making a pillar candle or wax melts you will need pillar wax. When choosing the wax from our website each description will show you lots more information, including pour temperatures etc.

Candle Containers and Moulds - If you are going to make container candles we have some beautiful glasses that are designed and made exclusively to us. These come in various sizes, colours and finishes so there is a lot of choice. We also do a wide range of moulds to make clamshell and pillar candles. 

Fragrances - This is completely personal choice when it comes to fragrances. We have over 300 to choose from our website. You can either use fragrance oil or s in your candle. The fragrances we supply include some amazing ‘dupes’ of your favourite perfume or aftershave. There are some amazing washing comfort fragrances and lots of traditional classic scents. Remember to let us know which ones are your favourites!

Candle Dye - Candle dye is added to the wax to change the appearance and colour of the candle you are making. There are many different colours you can get. You can use Bekro, Mica Powder or Bio Glitter.

Candles wicks - It is vital that you choose the correct wick for your candle. If you buy the wrong size wick you could encounter lots of problems with your candle not burning correctly. There are lots of things that will affect the wick you use and the way it burns. When choosing the wick you need to think about the size of your container, the type of wax you are using, how much fragrance you are going to add and if you add dye. Please visit the wick guide page or alternatively each wick has its own guide on the website.

Scales - It is important that you measure the correct weight of everything that you are using. Wax, fragrance, dye all needs to me weighed accurately. 

Melting the wax - You will need saucepans to melt your wax in. In most cases it’s easier to fill a larger pan half full with water and bring to the boil, sit a smaller pan into the larger pan and put the wax in the smaller pan to melt. This is called ‘double boil’. We also sell a Bain Marie on the website which is simple to use and very effective link to page If you are thinking about going into business and will be making large quantities of candles then a Wax Melter maybe your best option. 

Thermometer - You will need a thermometer to measure the temperature of your wax once its melted, when you’re ready to add your fragrance to your wax and when you need to pour your wax into the container. 

Warning Labels  - You must put candle warning labels onto your candles which show the correct burning instructions and also act as a safety label. 

You must also include a CLP sticker and use the SDS to ensure you get the correct % 

• Calculator – It is very handy to have a calculator to work out the correct ratio of the ingredients that you will use. 

Good luck and happy candle making!

What is a Test burn? 

In candle making, a burn test establishes that a candle meets safety and performance standards. It will reveal if you need a larger, smaller, or completely different wick. Candles which are poorly made will burn far too hot, they don’t completely combust or don’t have any significant hot throw about them. Even if you aren’t selling candles, burn testing helps inform you how well designed your candle is so you can check performance while observing safety standards.

Test burn process.  

- First of all, you need to trim back the wick of your candle to 1/4 inch. Remember to label your candles if you’re making more than one. 

- Place your candles 3-6 inches apart on a heat resistant, flat, clean surface. You will need to be able to see and watch the candles as they burn. 

- You will need to make a note of the time you light each candle and watch how it burns. 

- Once your candles have been burning for two hours you need to observe them and make a note of the size of the melt pool, the melt pool is where the wax melts across the top of the candle. Your melt pool should cover the whole diameter of the candle. If the diameter is not what you would expect in the melt pool, then your wick maybe too small for the container. You also need to observe the wick, is there any mushrooming or soot on the wick of your candle.  

- Again, when your candle gets to four hours of burning repeat the same observations. Once this has been done you can blow out the candle. 

- You should notice that the melt pool reaches its desired diameter and should be around ½ inch deep. If your wick is mushrooming, Sooting or the melt pool is deeper than ½ inch then your wick maybe too big for the container. 

- Lastly you will need to wait five hours for the candle to cool and then repeat the process again until your candle is burned fully. 

- Light your candle

- Wait 4 hours 

- Observe 

- Blow out 

- Wait 5 hours 

- Repeat 

It is very important to burn the whole candle before you decide on which wick is best to use.  

The diameter that you want to achieve will depend on the type of candle that you are making. Usually in container candles you want the melt pool to reach the sides of the container so there is no wax touching the glass. However, when making pillar candles you would usually leave ¼ inch at the edge to reduce the risk of spillage. 

 

Troubleshooting

Common problems when candle making.

Even the most experienced candle maker can run into problems.  If you make candles as a hobby or a business you should always be patient, it will become easier as you become more experienced, try to foresee any issues as you’re going along because once your candle is made there is not much you can do to rectify a problem. 

Here are some of the problems you may encounter and ways in which you could help: 

The wick has moved whilst my candle is cooling. This can happen if your wick has not been pulled tight from the pouring process. When you stick your wick to the bottom of your container ensure you put it through your wick holder and just bend the top over, this will help keep it in place. Once you have poured your candle adjust the wick holder to the centre of your container and keep your candle is a place where it cannot be touched whilst it cools. 

My candle has tiny bubbles. This could be because when the fragrance or dye is mixed in or the candle was poured when the wax is not at the recommended temperature, please see recommended temperatures for each wax on our website. Or the wax has been disturbed whilst the candle is cooling.   

There is a tunnelling effect near the wick of my candle. If your candle is burning down the centre this means the wick is not burning hot enough to reach the edges of your container and will therefore leave wax unburnt. This is very simply because your wick is too small. You could try the next size up to test in your candle or use the wick guide and check the size of your container as to what size wick you need. 

There are sink holes in my candle. These usually appear during the cooling process. Sink holes are a very common problem and there could be many reasons for this. Firstly you need to ensure the wax is poured at the correct temperature, once the wax has solidified you could add a little more hot wax to fill in the holes. You could also heat your container prior to pouring your wax. 

The wick is smoking when its burning. A common cause for this is that the wick is too long at the top of your candle, you simply need to blow out the candle and cut the wick 1cm. Another reason would be if your wick is too large in comparison to your container. It could also mean that too much fragrance has been added to your mixture, you could reduce the amount added to your candle wax. Lastly make sure your candle is not placed where there is a draft. 

My wick looks like it has a mushroom on the tip. Mushrooming occurs when the burnt wick starts to twist usually with parts of unburnt wick that’s still attached. This is usually due to unwanted carbon build up and is commonly down to the candle wick being too large for the container. 

The top of the candle looks cracked. This could be due to the pouring temperature being out of the desired range. This can be -fixed by using a hair dryer or a heat gun to melt the top layer of wax it should then reset level. 

There is fragrance seeping from the top of my candle. The main and most common cause for this is too much fragrance has been used. You could check the documents for the fragrance and wax and see how much fragrance is recommended. 

My candle keeps going out. This could be because the wick cannot absorb the wax at the rate at which it burns and your candle wick is too small for the diameter of your container. You could try a larger wick, check the wick guide to ensure you have the correct wick size for the container you’re using. 

My candle was cracked when it came out of the mould. This is usually a problem when the candle is cooled too quickly, try to ensure your candle is cooled in moderate room temperatures. Do not place your candle near a draft, window or anywhere too cold to speed up the cooling process.  

The wax has caught fire in the pan. It is always important to ensure you have a thermometer and use it! Wax can catch fire if it is heated significantly higher than what it should. Every wax we sell will show its melting point temperature in the description, use the thermometer to monitor the temperature as you go.  

I managed to spill wax on the counter tops! We suggest you use a spatula and gently scrape the wax off the surface. Once most of the wax has been removed use a warm cloth or sponge to remove the remaining wax. 

The candle colour is starting to fade in the candle. Nearly all candles that have some sort of dye in will begin to fade if placed in direct sunlight for a length of time. You could try to store your candles in a cupboard or a dark room. 

I can see spots of dye in my candle. This is usually a problem when the wax has cooled too much and therefore the dye doesn’t dissolve properly when mixed. Ensure that the wax is molten hot when the dye is added and stir until you see it is dissolved.  

Potential wick problems 

Centring your wick 

Using a mould:  

Different moulds have a slightly different way to add the wick. Some moulds require a metal wick which gets placed in the centre and when the candle cools it is pulled out and the real wick put in its place. Some moulds may have a metal wick built into them and you can also use the metal wick to make a hole for the real wick after the candle has cooled.  

You may also have moulds in which the wick is on the outside and will just need to be placed right and pulled tight to ensure it stays in place.  

Using a Container: Most wicks you would use in a container will come pre waxed with the sustainer on the bottom, all you will need to ensure these stays in place is as glue tab. The glue tab sticks to the bottom of the sustainer and is double sided so also attaches to the centre of the container. Once the wick is securely stuck to the base of the container you will then need a wick holder, lolly stick with a hole or something as simple as a peg to ensure the wick stays in the centre of the container once the wax has been poured in. 

Raw Wick: If you have raw wicks, the process to wax them is simple. After you have melted the wax and it is free from fragrance or dye, you can place the wick into the wax and remove it again immediately. You need to make sure that it is tightly stretched once it is out of the wax to ensure that no air bubbles are formed in the wax. The wax will take minutes to dry and a tab can now be added. It is not required to pre-wax your wick, but it does make the wick look neater.  

First burn: When burning a candle for the first time to prevent ‘tunnelling’ which is where the wick burns a hole through the centre of the candle and down the wick, the initial burn should always be to burn the candle for one hour for each inch in diameter. For example, a 4” candle should be burnt for a minimum of 4 hours. This will help reduce the chances of tunnelling and should achieve the maximum pool of wax for the wick. 

Ways to Improve candle performance. 

You should ensure the wick is approximately 5mm before you light the candle. This helps the wick perform better and makes your candle last longer. You should trim the wick if needed after every burn. 

My flame is too small. 

If you have cut the wick too short, you will find that the flame doesn’t give the correct height and this will result in not enough heat getting to the wax to burn the correct diameter pool.  A candle flame should be around 1” high. 

My flame flickers. 

Generally, if the flame is flickering your wick is too tall, you should ensure you cut the wick smaller before you light the candle again.  

Wax left at the side of the container. 

After the first two test burns If you find that your melt pool does not cover to the edge of your container you should try burning the candle for up to three to four hours. It could simply be that you are not giving the candle enough time for the wax to melt correctly which is why you should try burning it for longer. Also, it is important to check the height of the flame. 

Sooting wick? 

When carrying out a test burn you may sometimes experience that your wick is Sooting. This can happen because you are using the incorrect wax, size of wick or type of wick. Sooting may also be caused if you use too much fragrance oil or too much dye. The wick pulls up the excessive fuel and fails to burn it cleanly at the flame resulting in Sooting. 

A correctly wicked candle will… 

You can tell if your candle is correctly wicked when the flame is about 1″ tall and it does not flicker too much when burning. The candle burns cleanly and does not soot. The candle melt pool should be to ¼ to ¾” deep. The melt pool should be spread evenly across the top. Once your candle is completely burnt you should have a clean container with no wax left.  

On the website we give guidance on the type of wick needed for each wax and the wicks give guidance on which size wick is needed for each size container. 

We advise you try various wick sizes to ensure you find the best one which works for you. 

 

How to Make a Reed Diffuser 

Diffusers are the perfect addition to you candle collection. You get the same joys of the lovely fragrance you chose in your room and don’t have to be lit. with various if not all fragrances readily available to use, you also have some amazing shaped bottles, various colour reeds and even our new diffuser flowers 

Ingredients needed to make a reed diffuser: 

Weighing scale 
2x Jug 
100ml diffuser bottle 
Diffuser bottle plug 
Diffuser cap 
Diffuser Reeds/flower
20 grams fragrance oil  
80 grams reed diffuser base oil   

How to Make a Reed Diffuser: 
-Collect all the items you need. 
-Clean your diffuser bottle.  
-Weigh out 80g of diffuser base oil into one pouring jug.   
-Measure out 20g of fragrance oil into the second pouring jug.  
-Mix the fragrance oil into the diffuser base and gently stir together and ensure that the liquids mix well.  
-Pour the liquid from the jug into your diffuser bottle. 
-If you are selling your diffuser, add the plug to the neck of your bottle and then screw on the lid, add the reeds and your diffuser is ready to ship. 
-If your diffuser is for personal use, screw the cap on and insert your reeds or flower and place in your home.  

 It is important to measure your fragrance oils in grams as different weights. The maximum percentage of fragrance to diffuser base is 25% anymore and the fragrance will clog the reeds and stop the scent from travelling up the reeds.  

 

Guide to Temperatures 

One of the most important things to monitor whilst candle making is the temperature. It is vital that you use the correct temperature throughout the candle making process. There will be different temperatures required at different stages of making your candle which will vary depending on what products you are using.  

We have various types of wax on our website, all of which the temperatures will vary slightly.  

Below are the temperature to melt and pour the different waxes which we supply: 

Wax type	Melt Temp °C		Pour Temp °C
Sasol Blended Candle Making Wax (6243)		57°C		60-65°C
Sasol Blended Candle Making Wax (6213)		48°C		76-80°C
C-3 Soya Container Blend Wax		48-50°C		55-65°C
Elite 300		60-70°C		75°C
Golden Soy Wax 464		45-48°C		65-75°C
Golden Soy Wax 494		52-58°C		71°C
Kerasoy Pillar Blend Soy Wax		57-63°C		55-65°C
Kerasoy Container Blend Soy Wax		45-55°C		45-55°C
Kerax 4105 Container Blend		45°C		50-60°C
C-6 Soya & Coconut Wax Blend Container Wax.		75-80°C		50-80°C
Ecosoya Pillar Blend		70°C		60°C
Ecosoya Wax CB-135		70°C		60°C
Eco Olive Container Blend		75°C		65°C

 

When you add the fragrance to your wax, this depends greatly on the flash point of the fragrance. It is vital you follow the flashpoint temperature, if you add the fragrance and the wax is too hot the candle will have no fragrance when you have finished. 

When your candle is cooling you need to ensure the room temperature is 22°C. The room temperature should remain the same whilst making and cooling your candle as changing it could cause the candle to not set properly.  

 

Guide to Wax 

One of the common questions we are asked is what wax I should use for candle making! There are several things to consider when deciding on a wax. You should think about what sort of candles you want to make, the type of wax you want to use, do you want you experience of candle making to be simple or complicated, how strong you would like the candle to smell and also how you would like the finish of the candle. By answering all these questions, you should be able to find the best wax to use. 

When you decide to make a candle, the first thing you need to decide it what type of candle you want to make. 

Container candles 

Container candles are one of the most popular types of candles to make. They are simply a candle usually in a glass container, they can also be in a tin, votive, teacup etc. We have a wide range of glass containers, in various designs and different colours. Tins also come in different sizes, colours and lids. 

When you make a container candle you can use various types of wax including soy wax, paraffin wax, blended wax and also vegetable wax. Why is this? This wax is designed not to shrink on cooling significantly, and to cling to the sides of your container. 

Wax melts 

Wax melts are also a very popular choice for candle makers, they are extremely simple to make! Wax melts can be used in a wax burner, where because of the wax getting hot and melting it gives off the scent. Wax melts can be made from vegetable wax and paraffin wax. You should try to stick with pillar wax, never use container wax. 

Pillar Candle 

Pillar candles are designed to stand on their own, it does not need a container and is made in a mould. Pillar wax will shrink when it cools and will release itself from the mould when it has cooled. Paraffin and vegetable wax is one of the most popular pillar waxes. It is important to choose a wax that is designed for a pillar candle as container wax will not release from the mould. 

Tea light candles 

These are a very small thin metal tin candle containers, they are not freestanding like the pillar candles so can be made from various waxes including paraffin and vegetable wax. 

Votive Candles 

Votive candles are usually made in a glass or metal container. They are small candles that are around 6cm tall. Much the same as container candles as they are not freestanding you can use various waxes ranging from vegetable waxes to paraffin waxes.  

 

IMPORTANT 

Most types of candles can be made from vegetable and paraffin wax, but it is critical to buy the wax that is recommended for the type of candle that you are making.  

Guide to wick sizes 

One of the main questions we get asked at our help Centre is which wick should I use. Unfortunately, there is no simple answer 😊  

There are various sizes and makes of wicks which can be found on our website. When you start making candles it is recommended that you carry out a test burns, which is fully explained in the test burn help section.   

You will soon learn that the type of candle you make will be affected by the size of the container, the wick, the type of wax you use, the percentage of fragrance and the type and amount of candle dye you use.  

The main mistake people make when making the candles is to think that one size wick will be perfect for different types of containers. This however is not the case. 

When you carry out your test burn do not leave the wick too long or too short. Ensure the location you are test burning is draft free. Try different wick sizes and types to ensure you are testing for the best performance, this way you can compare the performance from each size. Do not burn the candles too close to each other as the heat they generate may affect the burning. 

You should ensure that you burn the whole candle, the candle may burn differently as they burn down. 

When you are happy with a wick you should carry out a test burn with the same variation to ensure you can produce more than one candle with the same variations which have the same performance. You must ensure when you are ready to sell your candles you are confident that you can produce the same product over again.  

It’s a good idea to record all of the data of the test burn. A good candle maker puts in the time and effort to ensure the test burn is recorded and data collected. You will then be able to ensure all future candles are to the same high standard and with consistent results. 

 You should record: 

-Room temperature 
-Temperature you add the fragrance 
-Percentage of fragrance oil added 
-Percentage of candle dye added 
-Temperature you pour the wax 

 

 

Wick sizes 

TCR  

Designed for use in Soya and Natural waxes, all wicks are 120mm long. They are fitted with Long Necked Sustainers as an added safety feature to lessen the possibility of the wax getting too hot at the bottom of your container TCR 18/10 for diameters 32-38mm. 

 Indicative usage is as follows: 

TCR 21/12 for diameters 40-50mm. 

TCR 24/12 for diameters 50-60mm. 

TCR 24/14 for diameters 55-65mm. 

TCR 27/16 for diameters 65-75mm. 

TCR 30/18 for diameters 75-85mm. 

TCR 33/18 for diameters 83-89mm. 

TCR 33/20 for diameters 89-95mm. 

TCR 36/22 for diameters 85-95mm. 

Eco Wicks 

The range of ECO wicks are designed to perform best with natural waxes. 

Indicative usage is as follows: 

ECO1 -   small candles - 120mm long. 

ECO4 -   votive candles and small candles - 120mm long. 

ECO8 -   teacup candles, medium candles - 120mm long. 

ECO10 - teacup candles, medium candles - 120mm long. 

ECO14 - large candles - 120mm long. 

ECO16 - large candles - 120mm long. 

Indicative usage is as follows: 

ECO1 - up to 55mm width. 

ECO4 - 55mm - 65mm width. 

ECO8 - 60mm - 70mm width. 

ECO10 - 65mm - 75mm width. 

ECO14 - 70mm - 80mm width. 

ECO16 - 75mm - 85mm width 

Eco Wicks 

The range of ECO wicks are designed to perform best with natural waxes. 

Indicative usage is as follows: 

ECO1 -   small candles - 120mm long. 

ECO4 -   votive candles and small candles - 120mm long. 

ECO8 -   teacup candles, medium candles - 120mm long. 

ECO10 - teacup candles, medium candles - 120mm long. 

ECO14 - large candles - 120mm long. 

ECO16 - large candles - 120mm long. 

Indicative usage is as follows: 

ECO1 - up to 55mm width. 

ECO4 - 55mm - 65mm width. 

ECO8 - 60mm - 70mm width. 

ECO10 - 65mm - 75mm width. 

ECO14 - 70mm - 80mm width. 

ECO16 - 75mm - 85mm width. 

LX wicks 

Our waxed wicks are manufactured to the highest quality. These are made using WEDO LX wicks which are designed to reduce carbon build up and smoking. They have a 'self-trimming' effect as they curl into the flame. The LX wick is a superb all-round coreless wick and suits many candle types. For natural waxes and heavily scented candles we suggest you look at the ECO range of wicks. 

Indicative usage is as follows: 

LX10 - up to 55mm 

LX12 - up to 60mm 

LX14 - up to 65mm 

LX16 - up to 70mm 

LX18 - up to 75mm 

LX22 - up to 85mm 

Wooden wicks 

Our wooden wicks give a reassuring crackle and flame variation to create a homely ambiance. Length of wick is 130mm. 

Width 6mm – burn diameter up to 49mm. 

Width 8mm – burn diameter up to 55mm 

Width 10mm –burn diameter up to 62mm 

Width 13mm – burn diameter up to 73mm 

Width 14mm - burn diameter up to 78mm 

Width 16mm – burn diameter up to 82mm 

Width 18mm – burn diameter up to 83mm 

Width 20mm – burn diameter up to 86mm 

Width 22mm – burn diameter up to 87mm 

Width 24mm – burn diameter up to 98mm 

 

What are fragrance oils? 

Fragrance oils are manufactured scents comprising of both natural and synthetic compounds. Our scents are concentrated so will generally smell stronger; you shouldn't judge the fragrance by how it smells in the bottle as they are made to be used in an application. They can smell totally different once they are in a candle or melt. 

Smelling fragrance oils out the bottle. 

The scent that you smell from the fragrance oil neat will not reflect on the final product. The fragrance oils are designed for a final product. 

Our fragrance oils are highly concentrated and when smelt straight from the bottle it will be neat and usually very strong. 

When you smell it directly from the bottle there could be many factors that affect what you're experiencing. A warm and cold fragrance oil will smell differently, being kept in a colder environment may make some fragrances smell stronger and some may smell weaker. 

All these variables contribute to the reason that you shouldn't decide on a fragrance just by smelling It out of the original bottle. We would recommend using perfume testing strips, you dip the strip into the fragrance oil and once its dried it will usually be a whole new fragrance scent.  

We do sell 10ml sizes of all of our fragrances so that you can test before you commit to larger amounts. 

How much fragrance to add. 

Firstly, there is a limit to the amount of fragrance oil wax can hold. Once it reaches the maximum the wax will either separate out and drop to the bottom, or it will slowly leech out of the finished candle. We recommend adding 5ml of fragrance oil to 100g of wax (commonly called 5%). This can be increased to up to 10% but we recommend not more than 8% as a rule for highly scented candles. Also stir the wax lots and lots to make the oil as thoroughly mixed in as you can.  

What is the shelf life of fragrance oils? 

When a fragrance is correctly stored it can have a shelf life of up to 2 years. We do not recommend you keep a bottle partially full. This is mainly because the oxygen in the bottle can react with the oil and oxidize it, which will in turn make its shelf life shorter. If you can move it to a smaller container that will be more beneficial. 

Where to store fragrances 

Fragrances should be kept in a dark place and out of direct sunlight. Ideally a cupboard that is cool and dry. Keep the bottle tops sealed when they are not in use but remember not to over tighten the lid. 

Why does my oil crystalise? 

In colder temperatures some fragrances which usually are high in vanilla content can crystalise. The vanilla in the fragrance can appear stodgy and cloudy. If you heat a pan of water, remove it from the heat and place the fragrance container in the pan. It should melt the vanilla back to its original form. Your fragrance will not be affected in any way. 

When you handle fragrances 

When you handle fragrance, it is vitally important that you take into account the following: 

• Avoid contact with the skin. 

• Wear protective gloves and goggles if you think you will need them. 
• Wear a uniform to stop contamination from spreading from your clothing. 
• Do not use the oils on your skin. 
• Do not touch your face or eyes. 
• Do not eat or drink around the working area. 
• Maintain adequate ventilation in working areas and work in a well-ventilated room.
• Avoid breathing in the dust. 

Safety 

Fragrances should be used with care, if used incorrectly they can be very dangerous. 

Fragrance oils are highly flammable and should be kept away from naked flames, fire and other heat sources. You should not smoke around candles. 

Fragrances are extremely toxic. It is important that they are kept away from children and animals in case the fragrance is swallowed. 

The SDS will show guidelines that are provided for every oil. This will show any precautionary and hazardous information, so it’s important to read and familiarise yourself with each one. 

All spillages should be cleaned up immediately with an absorbent material, such as kitchen roll or a sponge. 

The container should be disposed of correctly. Most fragrances are harmful to the environment so care should be taken.  

Pregnant women should be extra careful especially in their first trimester. 

In the event of an accident 

If you get fragrance in your eyes, you should rinse immediately with an eye wash or water. If you are wearing contact lenses remove if easy to do so. If irritation persists, seek medical advice, you will need to provide the SDS information to the Doctor. 

If fragrance is swallowed, you will need to rinse your mouth with water and immediately seek medical advice. You will need to provide the SDS information to the Doctor. 

If fragrance comes into contact with the skin, you should remove any contaminated clothing and wash the skin with plenty of soapy water. If irritation continues, seek medical advice. You will need to provide the SDS information to the Doctor. 

If you inhale the fragrance you should move to an open space with fresh air, if symptoms persist seek medical advice.  You will need to provide the SDS information to the Doctor. 

Fragrance Oil Responsibilities 

Once the fragrances have been delivered, they are your responsibility, you should ensure they are stored and used in the correct and safe manner.  

It is your responsibility to read through and have available all the SDS sheets for each of the fragrances you hold. 

SDS sheets are available to download from our website. 

 

IFRA Categories

Category 1: Leave on products generally applied to lips

>All lip products

>Children's toys 

Category 2: Leave on products generally applied to axillae

>Deodorants and body sprays

Category 3: Products generally applied to the face using fingertips

>Eye products

>Face and body wipes

>Face paint

Category 4: Fragrancing products generally applied to neck, face and wrists

>Perfumes & aftershaves

Category 5: Leave on products applied to the face and body using the hands (palms)

*5A
> Body creams, oils, lotions of all types
> Foot care products (creams and powders)
> Insect repellent (intended to be applied to the skin)
> All powders and talc (excluding baby powders and talc)
*5B
> Facial toner
> Facial moisturisers and creams
*5C
> Hand cream
> Nail care products including cuticle creams, etc.
> Hand sanitisers
*5D
> Baby cream/lotion, baby oil, baby powders and talc

Category 6: Products with lip and oral exposure

> Toothpaste
> Mouthwash, including breath sprays
> Toothpowder, strips, mouthwash tablets

Category 7: Products applied to hair with hand contact

*7A
> Hair permanent or other hair chemical treatments (rinse-off) (e.g. relaxers), including rinse-off hair dyes
*7B
> Hair sprays of all types (pumps, aerosol sprays, etc.)
> Hair styling aids non sprays (mousse, gels, leave- on conditioners)
> Hair permanent or other hair chemical treatments (leave-on) (e.g. relaxers), including leave-on hair dyes

Category 8: Products with significant anogenital exposure

> Intimate wipes
> Baby wipes

Category 9: Rinse off products with body and hand exposure

> Bar soap
> Shampoo of all type
> Cleanser for face (rinse-off)
> Conditioner (rinse-off)
> Liquid soap
> Body washes and shower gels of all types
> Baby wash, bath, shampoo
> Bath gels, foams, mousses, salts, oils and other products added to bathwater
> Foot care products (feet are placed in a bath for soaking)
> Shaving creams of all types (stick, gels, foams, etc.)
> All depilatories (including facial) and waxes for mechanical hair removal
> Shampoos for pets

Category 10: Household care products with mostly hand contact

*10A
> Hand wash laundry detergent (including concentrates)
> Laundry pre-treatment of all types (e.g. paste, sprays, sticks)
> Hand dishwashing detergent (including concentrates)
> Hard surface cleaners of all types (bathroom and kitchen cleansers, furniture polish, etc.)
> Machine laundry detergents with skin contact (e.g. liquids, powders) including concentrates
> Dry cleaning kits
> Toilet seat wipes
> Fabric softeners of all types including fabric softener sheets
> Household cleaning products, other types including fabric cleaners, soft surface cleaners, carpet cleaners, furniture polishes sprays and wipes, leather cleaning wipes, stain removers, fabric enhancing sprays, treatment products for textiles (e.g. starch sprays, fabric treated with fragrances after wash, deodorisers for textiles or fabrics)
> Floor wax
> Fragranced oil for lamp ring, reed diffusers, pot-pourri, liquid refills for air fresheners (non-cartridge systems), etc.
> Ironing water (Odorised distilled water)
*10B
> Animal sprays - sprays applied to animals of all types
> Air freshener sprays, manual, including aerosol and pump
> Aerosol/spray insecticides

Category 11: Products with intended skin contact but minimal transfer of fragrance to skin from inert substrate

*11A
> Feminine hygiene conventional pads, liners, interlabial pads
> Diapers (baby and adult)
> Adult incontinence pant, pad
> Toilet paper (dry)
*11B
> Tights with moisturizers
> Scented socks, gloves
> Facial tissues (dry tissues)
> Napkins
> Paper towels
> Wheat bags
> Facial masks (paper/protective) e.g. surgical masks not used as medical device
> Fertilisers, solid (pellet or powder)

Category 12: Products not intended for direct skin contact, minimal or insignificant transfer to skin

> Candles of all types (including encased)
> Laundry detergents for machine wash with minimal skin contact (e.g. Liquid tabs, pods)
> Automated air fresheners and fragrancing of all types (concentrated aerosol with metered doses (range 0.05-0.5mL/spray), plug-ins, closed systems, solid substrate, membrane delivery, electrical, powders, fragrancing sachets, incense, liquid refills (cartridge), air freshening crystals)
> Air delivery systems
> Cat litter
> Cell phone cases
> Deodorisers/maskers not intended for skin contact (e.g. fabric drying machine deodorizers, carpet powders)
> Fuels
> Insecticides (e.g. mosquito coil, paper, electrical, for clothing) excluding aerosols/sprays
> Joss sticks or incense sticks
> Dishwash detergent and deodorizers - for machine wash
> Olfactive board games
> Paints
> Plastic articles (excluding toys)
> Scratch and sniff
> Scent pack
> Scent delivery system (using dry air technology) > Shoe polishes
> Rim blocks (Toilet)